Crew-cut and businesslike (he's also a legal academic and runs a sizeable property portfolio) René Rostaing has made Côte Rôtie (elite northern Rhône Syrah plus a little Viognier) of stark purity at his brutally stylish Ampuis cellar since 1971. He was fortunate in inheriting many small plots, some containing century-old vines. His 1991, from several different vineyards, is fine yet forceful, with flavours of fresh red plums and bramble fruits supported by fine-grained tannins.
Price £31.5
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