You'd think naming an appellation after a Roman god would give it a head start in the prestige stakes. But Mercurey struggles because it's south of the Côte de Beaune and dismissed by those who drink labels instead of wine. Since the '60s Jean Maréchal (whose family has grown grapes here since 1570) has raised standards at his 10 hectare estate, making Burgundies genuinely worthy of respect.
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